Sometimes things don't go to plan. And unfortunately, this can happen quite a lot when we start making our own ice cream. Especially if we're experimenting. Which of course, is one of the best things about having our own ice cream maker!
But if you're having problems, then you've come to the right place. Because on this page I'll help you work out exactly what's going wrong and show you how to fix it.
Why does homemade ice cream cause us so many problems? Well, making ice cream is as much a science as an art. It's a very delicate substance with three states (solid, gas and liquid) in perfect balance. And if we upset that balance, things can go very wrong, very quickly!
But when things do go wrong, there's really just three places that we should be looking:
our recipe- our preparation
- our ice cream maker
And in this order, too. Why? Well, when our ice cream turns out bad, there's a natural inclination to blame the ice cream maker, especially if we're just starting out, and we're perhaps using a new machine.
But while it's always a struggle to make really good ice cream with a domestic machine, and it's not unknown for ice cream makers to be faulty out of the box, this is the last place we should be looking.
Every domestic ice cream maker is capable of making very good ice cream if we use a good recipe, and we prepare it and the machine properly. So if we're having problems, let's look at these things first, in order to rule them out, before we start blaming the machine.
With that in mind, here's some of the most common problems we can have with homemade ice cream...
My ice cream is icy
This is probably the most common problem with home made ice cream. And it's caused by large ice crystals forming in the mixture as it freezes.
Large ice crystals are usually the result of either too much water in the mix or excessively long freezing time. Or often both, since lots of water means the mixture will also take longer to freeze.
Why would there be too much water in the mixture? Either the recipe is unbalanced or it wasn't prepared properly. Let's look at the recipe first.
Unbalanced recipes
Recipes can be unbalanced for many reasons. But in this case, we're talking about recipes that contain too much "free" water, which is water that's able to move about, unhindered by other ingredients.
If there's too much "free" water in the mixture, when it freezes, it all comes together to form larger crystals.
The water in ice cream comes from the liquid ingredients: the milk and the cream. Solid ingredients: the sugars, skimmed milk powders, stabilizers and eggs (which solidify when heated) will stop that water from moving about freely.
You can see this visually. When there are more solids and therefore less free water, the mixture looks thicker. This is because it contains less water that's able to move about unhindered.
So, remember: more solids means less free water. And less free water means smaller ice crystals and less icy ice cream!
If we're using a recipe from a well respected book or a decent website, it should already be well-balanced. The problems often start when we want to experiment with less sugar or less fat in our recipes. These adjustments will result in more free water and bigger ice crystals.
So my advice here: start out with well established, balanced recipes. When you want to start experimenting, run your new recipe through an ice cream calculator, making the necessary tweaks to ensure it's balanced!
Badly prepared recipes
Even if we're using a well balanced recipe we can still mess things up by not preparing it properly!
Ingredients should be measured out correctly. So make sure your scales are accurate.
If we're using powdered stabilizers, especially gums, there's several ways things can go wrong. Gums are incredibly potent, so we tend to use very small quantities. You'll need scales that are accurate to at least 0.1g to get those quantities correct.
Gums will also clump together if they're mixed directly into liquid. And when they clump together, they don't work properly. So we should always mix them into the sugar (and any other dry ingredients) very thoroughly before we add the milk and the cream.
Different stabilizers are activated at different temperatures. Most require heating. And if we don't use a thermometer to measure the temperature of our mixtures, we'll never be sure we've got to the temperature where the full extent of their powers is unleashed!
Likewise with eggs. To get the most out of eggs, they need to be heated. Generally, to 170 °F (77 °C). If we're not doing this accurately, we can't be sure they'll restrict the movement of the water as much as we'd like.
Long Freezing Times
Finding good, well-balanced recipes is easy. And with a bit of practice, most of us should be able to follow them properly! So I think more often than not, icy ice creams are down to the fact that domestic ice cream makers can take a long time to freeze our mixtures.
Why do longer freezing times produce icier ice creams? Well, remember the problem is large ice crystals. Ice crystals are formed in the machine. And the longer the mixture spends in the ice cream machine, the larger those ice crystals grow.
But why do domestic ice cream makers take so long to freeze our mixtures? Because most of them are under powered. So they have weak motors that rotate blunt, plastic paddles, very slowly. But that's not all...
If they use bowls that are pre-frozen in our freezers, those bowls start to warm up as soon as they're removed from the freezer, so they gradually loose their freezing power. And even if they use built in freezers for constant cooling, the compressors are not powerful enough to chill the mixture very quickly.
Unless we buy a top end domestic ice cream maker, there's nothing we can do about the freezing power of our machine. However, we can make it easier for our ice cream maker by getting everything as cold as possible before we start churning.
By everything, I mean:
- The ice cream mixture
- The bowl that it will be frozen in
- The container that the final ice cream will be stored in.
Cooling the mixture
Once we've made the mixture, we must cool it down as much as possible before it goes in the ice cream machine. I like to leave cooked mixtures in the fridge overnight. But if you're in a rush, you can add it to a zip lock bag and use an ice bath to get the initial temperature down, before transferring it to the fridge for another couple of hours.
Even uncooked mixtures will benefit from an hour or so in the fridge.
The idea is to get the mixture as cold as possible. Most fridges are around 39 °F (4 °C) and to be honest, that's the very warmest our ice cream mixture should be when it goes in the machine. I'd recommend using a thermometer to measure the actual temperature when you're first starting out.
Sometimes I'll even pop the mixture in the freezer for an hour or so, giving it a good blast with a hand blender to break up any ice crystals that might have formed before I pour it into the ice cream maker.
Cooling the bowl
The bowl that the mixture will be churned in should also be as cold as possible before we start.
If you're using a machine with a bowl that's pre-frozen in your freezer, it needs to be in there for at least 12 hours, (preferably overnight), to fully freeze.
These bowls are lined with a liquid gel that freezes solid. So one way to tell if it's ready is to shake the bowl. If you can still hear the gel sloshing about after 12 hours, it's definitely not ready yet!
If you've got a freezer with an adjustable temperature, it's a good idea to set it as low as possible when you add the bowl to help get it as cold as you can.
If you're using a machine with a built-in freezer, turn it on for at least 15 minutes to pre-cool the bowl before you add the mixture.
Most of these ice cream makers don't have a proper pre-cool function. So it's just a case of adding an extra 15 minutes to the timer and starting it up. The compressor and the motor will start at the same time, so the paddle will be spinning in an empty bowl, but that's not a problem.
So, your mixture's as cold as possible and the bowl of your machine is as cold as possible. Now, when you add the mixture to the bowl, this gives your machine a real head start: it will freeze the mixture faster so it will spend much less time in the machine and the ice crystals will be smaller.
Making sure the bowl stays cool!
With compressor ice cream makers, we need to be sure that the machine is constantly cooling as it's churning. Otherwise, the mixture will start to warm up, and it won't freeze.
On some machines, if you press the stop button to pause the churning (perhaps to test the consistency or temperature of the ice cream), the compressor will also turn off, and it won't immediately come on again when you restart the churning.
In fact, it can take several minutes for the compressor to restart, and there'll be a considerable amount of melting during this time. This will obviously increase the overall freezing time, which will have a detrimental effect on the smoothness of the ice cream.
Likewise, if the timer reaches zero, the machine will automatically stop and even if you turn it back on immediately, although it will start churning, the compressor won't start up again immediately.
So, once the mixture is in the machine and churning, avoid pausing the machine until the ice cream is ready to be removed! If you can see that the timer is going to run out before the ice cream is ready, add more time while it's still running rather than waiting until it's stopped.
On the Breville Smart Scoop, there is a similar problem if you forget to start the machine once it's pre-cooled. Towards the end of the pre-cool cycle, the machine is rotating the paddle anyway. So once the beeper tells you to add the mixture, it's easy to forget that the machine has not actually started yet and simply pour the mixture in and walk away.
Some minutes later, the pre-cool will finish, and the machine will turn off (because you didn't actually start the machine). Even if you hit the Start button immediately to start churning, the compressor won't turn on again for some minutes, during which time there'll be a lot of warming and the whole pre-cool process becomes a complete waste of time!
So, don't forget: when the machine beeps towards the end of the pre-cool cycle, you need to add the mixture AND hit the start button to start making the ice cream!
Cooling the container
You can also pre-chill the container that you'll put the ice cream into. Even 20 minutes in the freezer as the ice cream is churning will reduce the amount of melting that occurs as the ice cream is being moved from the machine to the freezer.
And less melting, means less re-freezing, which means smaller ice crystals and less icy ice cream!
My ice cream isn't smooth
I can think of three possible reasons why your ice cream isn't smooth. And to work out which one it is, you need to think about how the ice cream's not smooth!...
- Coarse, with a roughness that melts away in the mouth
- Sandy, with a roughness that doesn't melt in the mouth
- Lumpy, with tiny globules that give way under the tongue
Coarse textures
If it's coarse with a roughness that melts away in your mouth, your tongue is probably detecting large ice crystals. This is the most common defect in homemade ice cream.
It can be caused by low amounts of solids in your recipe, not enough (or the wrong type of) stabilizers, or excessive freezing time in the ice cream machine. For more information and step by step instructions on how to fix it, check out the "My ice cream is icy!" section above.
Sandy textures
If your ice cream has a sandy texture that doesn't immediately melt away in the mouth, your tongue is probably detecting lactose that's crystallized out during freezing. In homemade ice cream, this is usually caused by too much skimmed milk powder (SMP) in the mixture.
If you've added SMP and it's pushed the milk solids-non-fat (MSNF) levels in the mix above 16%, lactose crystallization is very likely.
The good thing is: it's really easy to fix! Simply add less SMP. It's a good idea to run your recipe through my ice cream calculator, as this will tell you the levels of MSNF in advance.
Lumpy textures
If you can detect tiny, lumpy globules that give way under pressure from the tongue, then there has probably been excessive fat de-stabilization during churning. Excessive what?!
Without going too far into the science, when we're churning ice cream, we want some of the fat particles in the milk and the cream to clump together to form long strings that'll protect the air bubbles introduced by the paddle.
This is called fat de-stabilization (or partial coalescence) and is a good thing. However, if too many fat particles clump together, the globules become big enough to be detectable by the tongue. Also called "buttering", this is a bad thing!
What causes too many fat globules to clump together? Well, if there's too much butterfat in the recipe. Or just a reasonably high butterfat content and then too much churning. And if you're using emulsifiers, too much will also cause excessive fat de-stabilization.
So, this one's easy to fix as well. Use less cream and more milk to reduce the butterfat content in your mixture. You can check your butterfat levels using my ice cream calculator.
You could also try churning your ice cream mixture for less time. The longer you churn high fat mixes, the more chances there are of this "buttering". And if you are using emulsifiers, simply use less!
My ice cream is too soft
I cover this issue in the "My ice cream is not freezing at all!" section below. It's usually down to unreasonable expectations...
Most domestic ice cream makers are not capable of producing ice cream that's any harder than soft scoop. Once the mixture has reached this consistency in your ice cream maker, it should be transferred to your freezer to harden further.
My ice cream is too hard
This is a common complaint with homemade ice cream. And it's true, when we take it out of the freezer to eat, it's usually rock hard and impossible to scoop!
This can be caused by several factors. Homemade ice cream usually contains much less air than the stuff you buy in the store. Air keeps ice cream soft. So the less there is, the harder your ice cream.
It can also be caused by low fat or sugar content. Fat doesn't freeze. And sugar lowers the freezing temperature of the water in our mixes. So they both keep our ice cream soft. But for health reasons, we often want to reduce the amounts of fat and sugar in homemade ice cream, and unfortunately this will make it harder.
It's pretty difficult to get more air into your ice cream, although you could try whipping the mixture before you add it to the machine. And maybe you don't want to add more sugar or fat to your recipes?
My advice would be simply to take your ice cream out of the freezer 15 minutes before you want to eat it, so it softens up a bit! If you put it in the fridge, rather than on the counter top, although it will take longer to soften, it will do so more uni-formally, so you won't get melted ice cream round the edges of the container while it's still hard in the middle.
Alternatively, you could add alcohol to your mixtures! Just like sugar (and salt), alcohol reduces the freezing point of water. So if you add one or two tablespoons of vodka (or any other 40% liquor) per quart of mixture, you'll find your ice cream stays a little softer in the freezer.
Vodka is good if you don't want to affect the flavor of the ice cream. But you can use any 40% liquor as long as the flavor compliments the other ingredients!
My ice cream tastes of candy
Sometimes ice cream can develop a very sweet, almost caramel like flavor that reminds me of candy. This seems to happen if I'm heating a mixture that contains skimmed milk powder (SMP).
The flavor is probably a stronger version of the cooked milk flavor that develops when we overheat milk. By cooking the mixture without SMP and then mixing it in a little later when the mixture's cooled down a bit, I'm able to avoid this flavor completely.
My ice cream tastes greasy
If your ice cream tastes greasy and leaves an unpleasantly cloying film in your mouth, then the butterfat content is probably too high. Try using less cream and more milk. And check the butterfat content using my ice cream calculator.
My ice cream tastes weak and watery
Weak, watery ice creams may not contain enough solids. Try adding some skimmed milk powder (SMP). Or you can experiment with stabilizers. A little bit of salt may bring out some more flavor as well!
My ice cream melts too quickly
This is another common issue with homemade ice cream. But again, it's usually down to several issues, including the amount of air, fat, solids and stabilizers there are in the ice cream.
Ice creams that contain lots of air and fat tends to melt slowly. Why? Well, the air insulates the ice cream against warming and the fat stabilizes the ice cream structure.
But homemade ice cream usually contains much less air than the stuff we buy in the store. And for health reasons, we often try to reduce the fat when we're making ice cream at home.
Ice creams that contain high proportions of solid ingredients and stabilizers also tend to melt slowly. This is because solids and stabilizers thicken the mixture, which helps it to resist melting when it's frozen.
But many homemade ice creams don't use any stabilizers (beyond eggs) and don't add extra solids.
So to try and prevent your ice creams melting so quickly there are several things you can try:
- Increase the fat content
- Add extra solids in the form of skimmed milk powder (SMP)
- Add more eggs
- Use other stabilizers
My ice cream isn't freezing at all!
One thing we need to be clear about: a domestic ice cream maker will never churn out ice cream with the same hard texture as the stuff you buy in the store. It's not possible.
In fact, most domestic ice cream makers aren't able to harden the ice cream to anything more than a soft serve type consistency. When you've reached that texture, the machine has actually done its job, and it's time to transfer it to the freezer for further hardening.
So if, when you say "my ice cream isn't freezing at all", you mean it's not freezing past Mr Whippy consistency, then you haven't got a problem, you've got unrealistic expectations! Because that's never going to happen.
However, if your ice cream still has a soup like consistency after 40 minutes in the machine, then you've definitely got a problem and a perfectly valid grievance! But we should be able to easily establish what that problem is by a process of elimination...
Could it be the recipe?
The first thing to look at is the recipe. Have you added too much sugar, salt or alcohol? They will lower the freezing point of the mixture. And too much of any of these ingredients could stop the ice cream freezing altogether.
You can use my ice cream calculator to check your recipe is balanced. But my advice is to start with a recipe from a well respected book or website and follow it to the letter.
Are you chilling the mixture properly?
If you're still having problems, then maybe it's an issue with the way you're preparing the mixture. Are you completely chilling the mixture before you add it to the ice cream maker?
If you add warm mixture to an ice cream machine, then it won't freeze very well, if at all. The mixture needs to be at fridge temperature (39 °F / 4 °C) or colder. Maybe use a thermometer to make sure it is!
Are you chilling the bowl properly?
If the mixture is cold enough, then maybe the bowl in the machine isn't. If you're using a freezer bowl machine, are you sure you fully froze the bowl? Give it a shake. If you can hear liquid sloshing about inside the walls of the bowl, then it's not been chilled for long enough.
But even if you can't hear any unfrozen liquid sloshing about, that doesn't necessarily mean the bowl is fully frozen! Check the temperature of the sides of the bowl with a thermometer. It should be the same temperature as your freezer. And your freezer should be around 0 °F (-18 °C). Are you sure your freezer is working properly?!
If you're using a compressor ice cream maker, are you pre-cooling the bowl? You should always try to have the empty bowl cooling in the machine for at least 15 minutes before you add the mixture.
On most machines this just means turning it on 15 minutes early. In this case, the paddle will be spinning in an empty bowl. But Musso ice cream makers let you run the compressor independently of the paddle. And the Breville Smart Scoop has an automatic pre-cool function which will take care of everything!
However you do it, the important thing is that you're not adding the mixture to a bowl that's at room temperature.
Is it a faulty ice cream maker?
But what if you're using a good recipe and you're preparing it properly? And it's completely chilled before you add to an ice cream maker that's also been pre-cooled? If you do all this, and it still looks like soup after 40 minutes, then maybe your machine is faulty!
Troubleshooting freezer bowl ice cream makers
If you're using a freezer bowl machine, and you're sure it's fully frozen to around 0 °F (-18 °C) or less when it comes out of the freezer, then perhaps it's warming up too quickly.
My Cuisinart bowl comes out of the freezer at around -9 °F (-23 °C) and after 20 or 30 minutes churning it's still at a respectable 12 °F (-11 °C). If yours is much warmer, that could be the problem.
Troubleshooting compressor ice cream makers
If you're using a compressor machine, then maybe the freezer isn't working properly. Compressor machines should be able to pre-cool their bowls to at least -15 °F (-26 °C).
Some machines will show you the current temperature on their LCDs, and these are more or less accurate in my experience. If you doubt them or you don't have a machine that displays the temperature, you can always test them with a cheap infrared thermometer.
Once the mixture is added to the bowl, the temperature will rise and it will always take some time for the compressor to lower it again.
In my experience, they never get back down to -15 °F (-26 °C). Instead, they'll hover around -2 °F (-19 °C). But this should be enough to get the job done adequately. If your machine is displaying a significantly higher temperature, then this is probably the issue.
Of course, if your machine doesn't display the temperature, it's hard to know what's going on! But again, you can always measure the temperature with an infrared thermometer. You may need to stop the machine in the middle of churning and this may ruin your batch, but at least you'll get some idea of what's happening.
Was it mistreated in transit?
If your compressor doesn't freeze properly from the day you take delivery of the ice cream maker, then there's a good chance that the problem occurred in transit.
Usually it's the result of the box having been tipped onto it's side or upside down. For sure, the boxes usually say "^ THIS WAY UP ^", but busy or careless delivery guys don't always see or heed the instructions!
If the ice cream maker is rests on its side or upside down, the coolant liquid will drain from the compressor to another part of the machine, and it won't be able to freeze properly.
But if this has happened, all is not lost! You just need to leave the ice cream maker standing upright for around 24 hours so that the coolant liquid drains back into the compressor.
Now, even if the ice cream maker is delivered to you the right way up, you have no idea if it's been the right way up for the entire duration of its journey. So it's a good idea to unpack it, place it where you're going to use it and then leave it for 24 hours before you turn it on, to make sure the coolant is in the compressor.
Because if you turn it on while the coolant isn't in the compressor, not only will it not freeze properly, but it could also damage the compressor, so that even when the liquid has drained back, it won't work properly.
So my advice is to definitely leave your new compressor ice cream maker upright and in position for 24 hours before trying it out, just in case!
If in the end you decide that your machine is faulty, get in touch with the manufacturer immediately.
Troubleshooting Ice Cream: Final Thoughts
There are loads of things that can go wrong with homemade ice cream. And it can be quite frustrating when we're first starting out. Because it's not always clear why things are not working!
But it's important to remember that while (unless we spend a fortune) we'll always be battling with under powered ice cream makers, all domestic machines are capable of making amazing ice cream.
All we need to do is help them along a bit. This means using well-balanced and well-prepared recipes, getting our mixtures as cold as possible before we add them to the machine, and ensuring the machine has been thoroughly pre-cooled.
If we do all this, then in many cases our problems will disappear! However, if the solutions I suggest here are not working for you, or you're having any problems that I don't cover on this page, let me know in the comments below, and I'll do my best to help you sort them out!
Hi Carl,
I am attempting to make dairy free chocolate ice cream using a mix of cashew and coconut milk, and although the product tastes great, I am having some difficulty in getting the base to churn in the ice cream machine. After aging, when I pour the mix into the machine, I have no problem getting the machine to start to thicken the mixture, but after a certain point, the mixture becomes too thick and it just stops rotating in the bowl.
I suspect that the thickness of the base has something to do with the blended cocoa powder and chocolate. I have made vanilla vegan ice cream that doesn’t have any flavoring and I have had no problem in getting the ice cream to churn.
My mix composition is as follows:
Fat 24%
Sugar 18%
SNF 7%
Total Solids 49%
Total Non Solids 51%
It seems to me that the total solids % is high and the non solids (water) is low. Do you think it would help if I were to add in more water by either increasing cashew milk or coconut milk?
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Luke
Hi Luke,
I’m really sorry about the delay getting back to you!
Yes, 49% is just over the top (48%) of the range of Total Solids you’d normally see. And since we’re using domestic machines they can struggle with such high proportions of solids.
I would definitely try increasing the cashew milk. You could also try swapping some of the sugar for dextrose which will keep it softer.
If you give me the full recipe I could probably help you more. Does the 24% fat content include that from the cocoa powder and chocolate?
Cheers!
Carl
Hi Carl,
No worries about the delay. Thanks for replying.
Are you suggesting that swapping some of the sucrose for the dextrose will make the mix less viscous and allow it to churn more easily in the freezer barrel? That makes sense, but I thought that swapping out sugars would have greater impact in the static freezing stage as opposed to the dynamic one.
Here goes the recipe, and yes the 24% fat includes fat from both the chocolate and the cocoa powder.
Cashew Milk 212 grams (32g Fat)
Coconut Milk 212 grams (32g fat)
Sugar 125g
Coconut oil 40g
Cacao butter 40g
Chocolate (melted) 40g
Cocoa Powder 16g
Fat 24%
Sugar 18%
SNF 7% (I counted the protein and carbohydrates from the ingredients and assigned it to SNF)
Total Solids 49%
I redid the recipe by:
1. Adding more coconut milk (so I could increase non-solids)
2. Reducing added fat (less coconut oil and cacao butter)
3. Changing the fat profile (I added safflower which is an unsaturated fat) so I could balance out the extra saturated fat content coming from the added coconut milk.
The new recipe is as follows:
Cashew Milk 200g (30g Fat)
Coconut Milk 400g (60g Fat)
Sugar 150g
Coconut Oil 25g
Cacao Butter 10g
Safflower Oil 10g
Chocolate 40g
Cocoa Powder 16g
Fat 18%
Sugar 18%
SNF 6%
Total Solids 42%
Total Non Solids 58%
You will see that the total solids reduced from 29 to 42 and the resulting product was much much better, and there was a good amount of churn in the ice cream machine. The end result was more overrun than in the previous batch which improved texture and scoopability.
Greatly appreciate any thoughts/comments you may have.
Thanks!
Luke
You’re right the dextrose will have a greater impact in he static freezing stage but it can definitely effect the dynamic stage too. But it looks like you’ve got good results just from decreasing the solids!
I don’t have a huge amount of experience with dairy free ice creams! Why are you using Safflower Oil and Coconut Oil rather than just depending on the fat in the Coconut milk?
Thanks for you reply. I will try dextrose. I could also try corn syrup right? Minding the difference in sweetness level.
The fat in the coconut milk isn’t enough, so I have to add in fat. I use coconut oil, because it is a largely saturated fat and blend it with safflower oil, which is unsaturated. I am looking for an overall oil mix of around 60-80% saturated fat and 40-20% safflower oil because this proportion helps melting rate and encourages best partial coalescence of fat particles. I also use safflower oil, so I can bring down the coconut flavor, and it works!
Yep corn syrup works well. It doesn’t taste as nice as sugar / dextrose though, so it’s best not to use too much.
Thanks for the info on the oils, this isn’t something I’ve got any experience of. In fact vegan ice cream is not something I’ve ever made!
In this chocolate ice cream, how strong is the coconut taste?
Thanks!
There is no coconut flavor! Absolutely zero. Chocolate is a strong flavor and masks any natural flavors in the base (i.e. coconut flavor).
There is one additional way to reduce any coconut flavor in the base, in case you are using flavors that aren’t strong; you can do this by using refined coconut oil (as opposed to virgin coconut oil) as it is stripped of any natural flavors, and is completely neutral…and this helps in removing the coconut flavor.
Give my recipe a go to see what you think. Just adjust the sucrose/dextrose combination, so you get more body and reduce the melt rate.
Many thanks!
Sounds really interesting, I’ll definitely give it a go. I’m also quite interested in using Stabilizer combinations to create “creamy” non-dairy sorbets. I made a raspberry sorbet the other day that texture wise was like an ice cream. Pretty incredible.
The question for me is: whats the point of the non dairy milk and fat in vegan ice creams. I presume we don’t really want the flavor of cashews or coconut? Then is it the mouthfeel of the fat? Or the slow flavor release of the fat? Or the creamy texture?
Do you mean why make vegan ice creams at all? If I think that is your question, there are a lot of reasons, but the most important one being : people want to reduce their consumption of milk because of reasons related to ethics, health, lifestyle, and lactose intolerance. It is the same with plant based milks which now represent 10% of all milk sales (dairy and non dairy).
If you can make a product as good as dairy ice cream, but with none of the drawbacks, people would buy it….they already did so in the case of plant milk!
And please share your combination of gums to make your raspberry sorbet, I am so intrigued!
I was making a Raspberry Sorbet from the Gelato Messina book. They just suggest a generic stabilizer, so I made my own mix of:
Locust Bean Gum: 2.5g (4 parts)
Guar Gum: 1.9g (3 parts)
Iota Carrageenan: 0.6g (1 part)
I think it’s the Carrageenan that made the difference.
No sorry, I wrote my comment in a rush. I totally understand why people want to make vegan ice creams for all the reasons you mention. And in fact I would also like to reduce my consumption of milk for both health and environmental reasons!
What I meant is why use plant milk over water? Why not make a sorbet? What is it that plant milk offers over water? Because I’m presuming it’s not the flavor.
So is it the fat? The creamy mouthfeel and/or the slow flavor release that fat provides? Or is it the texture? And how well do plant milks replicate the way these things are in milk?
You are exactly right. It is the dairy mouthfeel and texture that vegan ice creams are trying to replicate and you can’t get that with sorbets (maybe perhaps with chocolate, but not so easy with fruit sorbets.
I think plant milks do a pretty good job, although admittedly I have only worked with combinations of cashew milk (because of the neutral taste, and good body), and coconut milk (because of the high fat). I have yet to try soy, rice, and almond milk, but they don’t sounds too appetizing.
Just for the record, I am not talking about the milks you buy in the plant milk section, those are way too watered down and don’t have enough fat in the them. I am talking about the full fat coconut milk that comes in a tin can, and is often used in Thai food, and cashew milk that is closer to a paste than a liquid (I make my own cashew milk, because you can’t buy this consistency of cashew milk in a grocery store).
Just yesterday, I did a chocolate ice cream tasting with with around 20 people, and none could believe it wasn’t dairy, and no one could taste the coconut milk in the background. Obviously, Vanilla is less forgiving, but more often than not the added flavor naturally hides the coconut flavor.
I wonder if you create the same mouthfeel by just using the virgin coconut oil you mentioned (no flavor) with water and stabilizers? The thing is I don’t want to have to depend on robust flavors to hide the coconut / cashew flavors.
I’m presuming the cashew milk is just made by liquidizing soaked overnight cashews with some extra water?
Along with sugar free ice cream / sorbets, dairy free is definitely something I’m keen to get into!
You raise a good point. I don’t think it is possible, but maybe one can create that same mouthfeel with fats alone…chocolate sorbets do this pretty well, and I think it is because of the naturally occurring fat in the chocolate and cocoa powder. So far I have only made three ice cream flavors that use a white base : vanilla with a chocolate couverture, a “light” salted caramel, and cookies n’ creme and in all three instances the coconut flavor was not evident. However, when working with a white base, I always use refined as opposed to unrefined coconut oil.
As far as the cashew milk goes, you are looking more for a cashew cream than a cashew milk type consistency. This is how I make it (for every 100 grams of cashews I get around 300 grams of cashew milk).
1.) Soak 100 grams of cashews in water overnight
2.) Your 100 grams should soak up around 50g of water, so your new weight is 150g.
3.) When you put the soaked cashews into the blender, you want about half an inch of water to cover the cashews, so this turns out to be approximately 1.25 times the weight of the soaked cashews which is around 188g (150*1.25 = 188)….so the total weight of water and soaked cashews in the blender would be 337g = 188g water + 150g soaked cashews).
Clear?
Great, thanks for the tips Luke, it’s definitely something I’m going to investigate.
Carl, one more question (Sorry!)
I believe dynamic freezing has three functions : a.) introduce air b.) lower temperature in preparation for static freezing c.) agitate the mix so fat particles partially coalesce. When do I know when all three functions have been completed? Is it a matter of time, i.e. the 20-25 mins recommended by most ice creams, or a matter of temperature, i.e. the -4to-6 degree celsius range typically recommended, or both? I find that my ice cream reached -6 degrees celsius in less than 10 mins. Does that mean it is ready to take out? I would say no, because there is still some air to be incorporated, but am not entirely sure.
What are your thoughts?
Many thanks,
Luke
For sure, if you take it out after 10 minutes it will have lower overrun than if you remove it after 20 minutes. And often by quite a big margin (I think because more air is added in the later stages). But whether that’s good or not depends on how much air your particular machine adds and your personal preferences.
But I’ve also read that if you keep it in longer (as long as the temperature continues to fall) you’ll get smoother results. Depending on the ambient temperature, my ICE-21 will sometimes get the mixture to -8 I think. However, I haven’t noticed much difference in smoothness by leaving it in longer to be honest.
So for me, it’s more to do with how aerated I want the final ice cream.
Makes sense! Thanks
One more question, sorry!
What should one do with the ice cream that has formed around the barrel? It is usually tough to scrape, and obviously has not been areated like the ice cream in the middle of the barrel.
Should one just scrape this off and mix it with the ice cream in the middle of the barrel? Or should this be considered as something to be discarded, as it will affect the texture of the overall product, because it was not aerated like the product in the middle.
Thanks,
Luke
The ice cream that forms around the barrel has a very important function: pre-static freezing flavor testing! I tend to eat it straight from the bowl after I’ve got the rest of it into the freezer. Or let the kids at it!
You eat from the side of the bowl AFTER you’ve put the ice cream in the freezer? Who does that? I already start sampling from the side BEFORE the freezing is done! Most of it is gone before the freezing is done! Hah hah! LOL!
😀
Hi Carl,
I have noticed that irrespective of whether I make a vegan ice cream or sorbet, there is always a microscopic layer of ice on the ice cream when I take it out of the freezer (I cover the surface with plastic film and still have this problem), and there is always an ever-so-slight crunch when I bite down on the ice cream, irrespective of the recipe (most of my recipes are high fat/ high sugar), and irrespective of whether I use stabilizers or not. I don’t perceive this when I buy vegan ice creams in the supermarket.
These are more than tolerable defects, so I am not concerned about it, as you really have to be looking for these defects to find them, but I do wonder why this is happening. My only conclusion is that it is because of the limitations of home ice cream making.
I reckon that if my draw temperature is around -5 to -6 degrees then the percentage of unfrozen water is greater (when compared to a lower draw temperature), which means that when the water freezes in the freezer, the ice crystals will be bigger as there is more free water.
Then there is the fact that, even though I try and hurry and transfer the ice cream from the machine to a pre-chilled bowl, a good 2-3 minutes goes by, which probably exacerbates the unfrozen water problem, and then there is the fact that I don’t have a blast freezer which gives the ice crystals in the unfrozen water phase time to come together and be noticeable to the sight and to the bite when frozen.
Ideally you want ice, but small ice crystals, and not big ones, and all of the above creates big ice crystals? Is my thinking directionally right?
Many thanks,
Luke
As I understand it, the ice that develops on the top of the ice cream forms when water or ice in the ice cream evaporates and rises to the surface. As it meets the cold air at the surface it refreezes as an icy layer on top of the ice cream.
So, your thinking is probably correct: more unfrozen water in home made ice cream, means more evaporation, which means more icy layer on top!
I’ve got to admit, I don’t suffer from this too much. I wonder if it’s something to do with the different efficiency of our freezers?
For sure the freezers impact the quality. My freezer is at 0deg farenheit which isnt very cold…a single thermostat controls my fridge and freezer (I know, makes no sense) which means that more water rises to the surface.
Mmmm sounds like it could be the issue. What I dream about is a small dedicated freezer that I can keep constantly at the right temperature for gelato. They’re pretty cheap and easy to set up yourself. It’s the space that’s the issue for me.
My ice cream scooped like dust. It would crumble into dust and not scoop smoothly. I warmed it in the microwave oven but it still scooped dry like dust. What was the trouble? I used a common custard based recipe, used a high end gelato machine, and froze it in the freezer until ready to eat.
Did you try just leaving it out of the freezer for 10 minutes?
I have tried making a coconut base soft serve. I used all organic ingredients. It took a few trial runs but I finally got it right. The important factors was using just the right amount of emulsifiers & stabilizers .
Hi Carl,
I am still making vegan ice creams, but I notice that they are very dense on the palate…i.e., they take a long time to melt in the mouth and have a heavy mouth feel, resulting in a feeling of saturation quite quickly. My ice creams total solids are typically 40-45%, so I am sure that this has something to do with it. Fats and sugars in my formula are typically between 18-20% and I am happy to reduce this, but I want to keep my ice cream free of emulsifiers (the high fat formula is doing the job of reducing my need for emulsifiers). How can I reduce my total solids, and get a less dense mouthfeel, but without putting emulsifiers in the formula? Fiber?
Any thoughts?
Many thanks!
Luke
Great article! I also wanted to mention the possibility that your ingredients may not be as fresh as you think.
I got the buttery/waxy film (complete with butter chunks at the base of the paddle) and couldn’t figure out why. I was using the manufacturer’s default vanilla recipe for my very first batch. Had purchased 2 pints of local cream from the expensive grocery store. The one I’d opened did have buttery solids at the top but smelled OK, so I went on.
I opened the next pint the following day and it was completely spoiled.
Grocery store-brand heavy cream worked fine in the same recipe.
So either the local dairy’s heavy cream was way heavier than store-brand (if that’s possible), or the first pint I used was starting to go bad.
My ice cream tastes a little bit like Carnation Evaporated or Condense milk. Could it be overcooked mix? I am using SMP as an ingredient.
Regards
Jose
Hi, my icecream is really creamy. I actually want it to have a less creamy texture with just a little bit of grit to it. How do I do that?
That’s a very unusual request Stephanie! If you reuce the amount of cream and/or reduce the amount of sugar you’ll definitely get a less creamy / more grity texture! Let me know how you get on…
Hi. So my ice cream came out like a thick mousse. I used lots of custard powder with milk, coconut milk, sugar and condensed milk. I also added some corn starch to some milk to get heavy cream. It should have made 2 litres. I boiled everything and it got thick. Then i refrigerated it overnight and it came out with a slight pie filling texture. Is there anyway to fix this? Do you think its possible to use it as a pie filling like custard pie? Please help
I noticed in one of the pictures the bowl is covered in cling-film, including the inside of the bowl, and has a rubber band around the rim to secure the cling film. What is the purpose of the lining the bowl with cling film?
Hi Isabel,
It’s just to keep ice/moisture out of the bowl while it’s in the freezer. It’s not super important! You could just wipe out any that gets in the bowl before you use it 🙂
Thanks
Carl
A very well done from myself on your website. But most of all on your info.Straight off the bat precision, clearly told and easy to understand.I bought my machine before I read your review. I got lucky as in it didnt cost the earth ,and you reviewed it favourably. It’s a Domo chinese thing.. thanks again for making it all so understandable..
Thanks Paul!
My homemade ice cream sets like a brick and you really need heavy plant to get it out of the tub. This is true even though I put three table spoons of vodka in it at the churning stage . I don’t use sugar but stevia. I don’t put eggs in it because I don’t like their taste.So I use Philadelphia cheese instead of eggs,
Various advice in pages on ‘hard ice cream seem to suggest put more sugar in it, running to other suggestions such as readjust your freezer temperature – what nonsense nobody that I know keeps a freezer just for home made ice cream. So there about the other things in it that must be kept at -18c . Surely, there must be a product used in the industry which stops ice cream freezing solid in the freezer ?
Hi Vernon,
The product they use in the industry which stops ie cream freezing solid in the freezer is sugar! Plus more air.
If you’re taking out sugar but not replacing it with any other solids then I’d imagine you have a very watery mix.
Try replacing some of the sugar with dried milk powder. You could also add Erythritol or Glycerin to lower the freezing point.
Let me know how it goes!
Carl
Hey, Carl, hope you and your family are fine and safe.
First timer, I found this recipe online trying to replicate Texas Blue Bell’s Cookies & Cream, which is really nor my favorite but my only brand (needless to say, I cannot get it where I live). Anyway, just got my Cuisinart ICE-70, followed all instructions you suggested and got a very creamy ice cream, which is sitting in the freezer (2 hours by now) waiting for it to solid up.
The thing here, and nos assuming you know the brand, the ice cream flavor was… creamy. I mean, it actually tastes like HEB’s brand, not Blue Bell, which is more… I don’t know the way to explain it and it kills me, maybe dry? IDK…
The recipe calls for 1.5 cups of heavy whipping cream that contains (per 100 ml): 3g of protein and 31.3g of fat; 1.5 cups of half&half (which I didn’t have so I made it with equal parts whole milk and heavy cream); 1 cup of sugar and one tbs of vanilla extract (Mexican in this case, not Madagascar). I left the mix inside the fridge overnight and today I churned the mix for 25 minutes, adding the oreos 2-3 minutes before the end. Results: even though the mix I put in the fridge really gave a smell just like Blue Bell’s and it tastes like the cream or milk. I don’t know if lowering the sugar content (considering the amount of sugar Oreos have) would make any difference.
Anyway, kinda depressed it didn’t come out as I expected, flavor-wise, but happy the machine worked!!
Hope to hear from you.
Antonio
Hi Antonio,
There are so many things that could cause the difference in flavor.
It could be the type of cream, milk, the sweetness level, the syrups they use at Blue Bell etc.
But the dryness you describe isn’t really a flavor? It’s more about the consistency. And this could be due to the stabilization.
Blue Bell use a variety of stabilizers in their ice creams (guar, carrageenan and locust bean gum aka carob bean).
So I’d recommend reading my stabilizers page and trying the recipe again using one of them (or a combination).
This will for sure give you a drier end product.
I hope that helps!
Carl
Hi Carl, I am trying to making ice cream at home without a machine. As for the cream, I have seen some recipes where they use wipped heavy cream (to incorporate air) and condensed milk and this way you don’t have to heat the mixture. (because condensed milk already doesn’t have water in it).
An alternative way would be use heavy cream in liquid form, and heat up the mixture to get rid of the water in the cream.. but then i am assuming the mixture wouldn’t have much air in it.
Which way would you recommend ?
Hi Sam,
The first way is not really about water. It’s more about using a mixture that’s high enough in fat to hold air when you whip it without an ice cream machine. The condensed milk is a clever way of getting sugar and solids into the mixture without having to heat it.
I’m not sure how the second way would work. And since you don’t need to remove water I’m not sure why you’d even want to try it!
So I’d definitely recommend the first way!
I hope that helps!
Carl
Such a great post, I learnt a lot!
Thank you so much for putting all this valuable info together.
I’m glad you found it useful Tashian!
We made a ‘burnt Sugar ” ice cream yesterday and it never froze. like 4+ hours in the ice cream maker, and overnight in the freezer. all the other foods in the freezer are rock hard. The ice cream is still liquid. We used the recipe from “the ultimate Ice cream book” by bruce Weinstein. any thoughts?
Probably too much sugar. This will depress the freezing point so much that the mixture won’t freeze.
Hi Carl,
I am New to this site and to Homemade Ice Cream Making, I just bought a Cuisinart ICE-21 -my problem is that I am allergic to all milk protein, So any recommendations I would happily read..
Thank you
Tony
Hi Tony
Have you tried some of the vegan recipes with coconut milk?
Cheers
Carl
Hi Carl,
I bought a Musso Lussino a couple of months ago.
I have tried to make the perfect gelato but it seems impossible to avoid ice crystals. The gelato is great directly from the machine, but when hardening in the freezer for about 2 hours you can definitively detect ice crystals when biting it, and it bothers me.
Have you been able to make gelato with ice crystals that aren´t detectable?
Do you see anything in my recipe that you think might contribute to the ice crystals?
300 g milk (3 % fat)
90 g cream (40 % fat)
23 g skim milk
67 g sugar
10 g coconut syrup (78 g sugar/100 g)
13 g glucose syrup (23 g sugar/100 g)
0.8 g locust bean gum
0.3 g guar gum
0.075 g kappa carragenan
1 egg yolk
2.3 g soy lecitin
I always pre chill the machine for about 15 minutes. Furthermore, I only make small amounts, so the residence time is usually only around 10 minutes. And I have tried practically every combination of stabilizer blend there is.
Thank you in advance
/Jacob
Hi Jacob,
I would try increasing the stabilizers (not the lecitin) slightly.
Currently they around 0.23% of the mix. Try 0.3 – 0.4.
Also are you sure you’re not taking out of the machine a bit early? How firm is it when you remove it?
With the Lello you can leave it in until it’s quite firm.
Thanks
Carl
I froze the mixture in freezer and now I’m scooping frozen cream into the maker. What should ya do at this point? I didn’t have time to just cool it down so it’s been in the freezer for 22 days
Yeah you probably need to wait until it melts Keith!
What a wonderful website!
Really well written (I’m persnickety about grammar and spelling). Concise, informative — what, you won’t tell us about your weekend with your brand new puppy before you finally made it to the kitchen to test some LUSCIOUS new recipes? (can a recipe be luscious? I don’t think so.)
On the one hand, I am extremely grateful for your having written all of this and made it available. On the other, well, I can’t just experiment blindly anymore, can I? I will know in advance that I’m making a mistake. That takes all the fun out of not following rules.
Hi I was wondering if anyone can help me. We have an electro freeze ice cream machine. Sometimes the chocolate becomes a solid sometimes it is pure liquid when it comes out. The vanilla is always completely fine. Does anyone have an answer for me. Thank you
Hi Misti,
Are you following a recipe?
Thanks
Carl
Hi Carl, thank you very much for your extra-ordinary site !
I live in Italy and own different ice-cream machines such as EFFE 4 CATTABRIGA, PACOJET… I managed well to stabilized ice cream or sorbet after tone of experimentations. But I have one problem on stabilisation.I will try to make it short … it’s about Granita.
Going back to the roots of “ icecream”. I love home made granita Scrapped with a fork. Not the Sicilian one, but much closer to the Roman one. What I love is the texture, the fluffiness, the fact that the mouth is full ( not fat or smooth like in regular ice-cream or Sicilian granita ) and that in half of a second it’s only water. It’s like eating flavored snow. The overrun might be around 250 to 300%. My problem is how to keep that texture for at least 15 days. Now what I’m ending up with are a lot of flavored Little Rock in my bucket. The end mixture before frizzing is only inverted sugar for a ration of 19%-81%. The Fruits or herbs flavors are given by infusion or maceration In the IS from 7 days -rosemary to 40 days -Elderflower- . I tried many stabiliser with no real success. If you could give me some help or suggest something that would very nice. Thank you in advance.
ps : I can send of pic of before/after in case my explanations are not clear enough.
Thanks for your message Marc!
I’m not 100% confident, but I don´t feel like you’ll be able to stabilize a granita with the same texture for 15 days.
Have you already tried gelatin or other stabilizers? If so, what were the results?
Thanks for this very helpful article! My husband and I like to say that our family crest ought to say “Always room for ice cream.” So, I have been making a lot of ice cream during the pandemic. and we haven’t had to buy any from the grocery since. I use the Cuisinart 21 (with two tubs). I have followed a lot of your advice and appreciate it. I did want to share something else I have learned that has made a tremendous positive difference for us. I am now actually able to get my ice cream to harden and have the consistency of store-bought. (I tried a glass container and plastic wrap but I dislike soft ice cream, so that didn’t work for me.) I bought plastic cylindrical, quart-size containers (with lids) specifically for freezing (Balci, StarPack, Lin) and they work remarkably well. I chill them when they are empty while I am combining the ingredients, then I chill the ingredients in them for an hour or so. Then, I pour the ingredients into the machine and put the empty containers back in the freezer. When the ice cream is done, I quickly remove one at a time and refill it with the new ice cream. Then the whole thing goes back in the freezer to chill overnight. The next day, the ice cream is as hard as store-bought and scoops out perfectly with an ice cream scoop.
Good tip! I now use the thin plastic containers which come with takeaways. These are probably similar to what you’re talking about and seem to harden the ice cream much faster than anything else I’ve tried.
Hi Carl, great page you have here! I’m a budding home ice cream maker, and would like to ask you a few questions with regards to a recipe I used.
I made a syrup using 3/8 cup water, 1/4 cup honey and 1/4 cup lavender buds. Made a batch of ice cream by adding said syrup to my ice cream base. What I experienced for the ice cream on both occasions that I have made them was that it came out slightly icy (sandy texture almost) and sweet.
Did I use too much water to make the syrup? Would reducing the honey itself (on account of it being to sweet) make the ice cream harder.
Looking forward to your reply!
Hi Sean,
Sorry for the late reply!
I would try not using the syrup! So instead, use the honey in place of some of the sugar in the recipe.
And infuse the mixture with the lavender buds for a few hours before you churn the ice cream.
That should work better.
Cheers
Carl
Dear Carl,
This website, and your work, is really a wonderful resource–thank you!
I’ve got a question that is related to homemade ice cream freezing hard and overrun. You’ve addressed the topic, but I’m not sure I’ve found the answer to my specific question.
This is the context as I understand it:
– In general, homemade ice cream tends to freeze harder than commercial
– There are many articles written about why this is–including the more prevalent use of stabilizers in commercial ice cream
– One reason I’ve read is that commercial ice cream machines churn faster, and thus create more air, with the theory being that air makes fluffier and less hard ice cream. As I understand it, the more air, the higher the overrun
Here’s my confusion:
– I’ve read that gelato is actually made with less overrun, and that, in general, commercial super premium ice creams contain significantly less overrun than economy ice cream
– And yet super premium commercial ice cream, say Salt & Straw, does not freeze very hard, nor does Morgenstern’s
– I picked two those because they are both Philly-style, so no eggs, and also do not contain any cream cheese, unlike Jeni’s
– In my experimentation at home, I’ve tried their published recipes, Salt & Straw uses xantham gum, Morgenstern’s does not–and also used milk powder and corn syrup. But my ice cream still freezes quite hard.
So is it that there is more air in commercial ice cream that leads to a less hard ice cream in the freezer? Or something else?
Thanks so much again for your very informative work!
Hi JC,
Sorry for the late reply!
I’m not familiar with those brands, so it’s hard to say definitively.
It may be that they still have more more air whipped into them than you’re able to achieve at home.
Or they could have a higher sugar content than the ice cream you’re making at home.
Try taking some of the sugar out of the recipe and replacing it with twice the amount of Karo Corn Syrup (or dextrose).
This will increase the sugar levels (which will make the ice cream softer), without making it overly sweet.
Cheers!
Carl
Dear Carl,
You may have addressed this with someone else’s query, not sure. I also have a Cuisinart, and am aware that the inside bowl ‘saline’ liquid solution is supposed to be frozen. No matter how long I leave it in my freezer, days, weeks, the liquid never really freezes. I can always hear it when I shake it. That said, my freezer/regrigerator is only about 4-5 years old, and the dial is at ‘0’. I don’t know what to do. I even tried filling the bowl with water to freeze it inside it, and wrapped the bowl in a plastic bag. No luck. Sigh.
Steve
Mmm that’s very strange. If you’re 100% sure you’re freezer is working correctly then there must be an issue with the bowl.
I don’t suppose you’ve managed to accurately measure the temperature inside the freezer have you? Just to be sure.
Other wise I would contact Cuisinart customer service.
Or you could buy a spare bowl. They’re around $30. If the spare bowl doesn’t work either then there could well be an issue with the freezer.
Also have you tried to make ice cream with it (despite the fact that some of the solution remains unfrozen)?
I made my first ice cream using the chocolate recipe in the cuisinart book. It’s grainy from the organic cocoa powder. Can I melt it down on heat and then rechurn?
Yep, that’s no problem. Just make sure you chill it thoroughly before you put it back in the machine.
Hello ice-creamers! I was wondering if anyone knows..
I made some anglaise but once i churned it in the machine, it has that too fatty mouth feel at the end. I got too ahead of myself and veered from the recipe adding too much cream, not enough milk.
Would i be able to fix it if i melt it back into an anglaise, add more milk and sugar over heat, chill and churn again? Or should i just move on?
Thanks 🙂
You could definitely try Katie!